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Mt. Baruntse Expedition

  • Price
  • USD 9000
  • Trip Grade
  • Strenuous
  • Max Elevation
  • 7129m
  • Best Time
  • Spring & Autumn
  • Activities
  • Climbing/Trekking
  • Total Duration
  • 36 Days
  • Group Size
  • 2-15 people
 Mt. Baruntse is located between Lhotse and Makalu at the epicenter of three glacier valleys including Barun, Imja and Hungu. The mountain was first ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow in 1954 by the South-East Ridge. However, the steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse a somewhat difficult climb. Therefore, we choose a more accessible and popular alternative via South Ridge. This route also gives us the opportunity to acclimatize and climb the Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft). We make two high camps above the Base Camp – Camp I just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and the Camp II on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. The Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing also includes a few days trek into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)
Day 02 : Kathmandu sightseeing & getting prepared
Day 03: Kathmandu to Lukla then Chhutanga (3050m), 4 - 5 hrs
Day 04 : Chhutanga to Thulikharka ( 4300m), 6 – 7 hrs.
Day 05: Thulikharka to Mousamkharka (3700m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
Day 06: Mausamkharka to Thagnak (4350m), 5 – 6 hrs.
Day 07 : Rest day at Thagnak
Day 08 : Thagnak to Khare ( 5099m. ); 5 – 6 hrs
Day 09: Khare to Mera Base Camp (5300m), 4 – 5 hrs.
Day 10: Base Camp to High camp ( 5700m), 4 – 5 hrs.
Day 11: Summit (6476m.)– Khongma Dimngma (4850m), 9 – 10 hrs.)
Day 12: Kongma Dingma to Pokhari camp (5035m), 6- 7 hrs
Day 13: Pokhari Camp to Baruntse base camp (5300m), 6 hrs
Day 14-27: Climbing period
Day 28 : Coming down to Pokhari Camp
Day 29 - 35: Return Back top Kathmandu
Day 36 : Departure to sweet home !
Day 01:   Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)

We will be waiting you at Kathmandu international airport holding a signboard with your full name so that you could recognize us so easily. When you come out, we will take private car to get 3*** hotel in the heart of Kathmandu city. Shortly you will do check in and get refreshed. Then in the evening we will have a fantastic welcome dinner together at one of the Nepalese famous kitchen which introduces you a very unique Nepalese cuisine.

Day 02 :  Kathmandu sightseeing & getting prepared

This is the valley where flourished Buddhism and Hinduism together over the centuries. The ancient architectures of Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples are just spectacular. As this is the capital city of Nepal, people live together  from different walk of life and ethnic communities. After a breakfast, we start our guiding tour to UNESCO heritage sites; Kathmandu Durbar square, Monkey temple and Bouddhanath stupa; the major Buddhist sites.

Day 03:   Kathmandu to Lukla then Chhutanga (3050m), 4 - 5 hrs

An early flight to Lukla and landing on a steep mountain runway brings us to the Lukla, the gate way of Everest where we will meet our entire crew members and get introduced each by each. An easy day through the woodland above Lukla. A good trail leads through pasture to the edge of a diminishing forest of rhododendron and pine which covers the steep hillsides above Lukla.

Day 04 :  Chhutanga to Thulikharka ( 4300m), 6 – 7 hrs.

Today is the first big walk of the trek; a steep ascent to the Zatwra La 4600m). As you are still not acclimatized it is generally a hard walk, even if the conditions are good (no snow). Later in the year the Zatrwa La can get considerable amount of snow and you might need to use crampons and ice axes as well as install fixed ropes to safeguard porters. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Thule Kharka (big pasture) where there are several basic lodges.

Day 05:   Thulikharka to Mousamkharka (3700m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

The trail descends the rock-strewn path passing through rhododendron and pine forest. We find virtually, no human settlement on the trail. A long the our way to Mousamkharka, we will have perfect opportunity to see various mountains to all directions.

Day 06:  Mausamkharka to Thagnak (4350m), 5 – 6 hrs.

We walk all day through the side of the mountain and the trail is narrow. We pass through the pasture lands and the patches of the jungle on the trail become thinner as we ascend near the snow line.

Day 07 :  Rest day at Thagnak

Rest day in Thagnak. It is worth spending an extra day at Thagnak, which is in a superb setting surrounded by stunning peaks including Peak 43 (6,769m). There is a huge moraine in the north of Thagnak where a beautiful glacial lake, Sabai Tsho is dammed. It is worth exploring around for acclimatization purpose. Thagnak is also a base for climbing east and north-east side of Kushum Kanguru.

Day 08 :  Thagnak to Khare ( 5099m. ); 5 – 6 hrs

The hike to Khare is a gentle rise, and we can take our time. We’ll cross the river just above Tagnak then ascend the Dig glacier. We’ll be able to see the Hinku Nup glacier hanging above us as well. The trail gets steep again just before Khare, but we can rest for a bit in the village before taking another acclimatization excursion along the ridge behind it.

Day 09:  Khare to Mera Base Camp (5300m), 4 – 5 hrs.

We ascend for three hours and arrive at Mera La (5,415m). Normally, the pass will be covered with snow from Nov.- April. Again the views from the pass are spectacular.  We descend about 100m towards the Hongu side and set up the base camp (5,300m) in the moraine below the ice. We embrace the spectacular scenery of snow-slope and the panorama of Himalayan peaks.

Day 10:  Base Camp to High camp ( 5700m), 4 – 5 hrs.

We walk up through rocky trail for about 4 hours to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. We set up a high camp and make preparation for the next day to get to the summit.

Day 11:  Summit (6476m.)– Khongma Dimngma (4850m), 9 – 10 hrs.)

We start early morning after breakfast around 3:00am. Initially, we hike on the flat land on snow and gradually ascend with the help of main rope. There will be steep climbing near the summit but it would be rather non technical. After we reach the summit we embrace the spectacular panorama of the Himalayas including the 8000m. giants; Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchanjunga. We descend to base camp and enjoy the hot meal. We return to high camp and then to Khongma Dimngma.

Day 12:  Kongma Dingma to Pokhari camp (5035m), 6- 7 hrs

We gradually ascend through Hongu valley, the real mountain wilderness.  There are several lakes and Himalayan peaks loom over the valley. We camp near the lakes.

Day 13:  Pokhari Camp to Baruntse base camp (5300m), 6 hrs

We continue following Hongu Valley passing through small boulders. The valley appears more barren as we climb up. We follow the right bank of Barun Glacier and arrive at Baruntse base camp. The camp will be set up on a broad open valley at foot of  the East Col.

Day 14-27:  Climbing period

After having rest at Baruntse base camp, we cross the East Col and set Camp I on the flat expanses of the glacier and at the foot of the South East Ridge, at an altitude of 6,000m. The climbing Sherpas will make the route and carry the loads to Camp I. The climbing from Camp I follows steepening slopes to a small col at the altitude of 6,450m where Camp II will be placed. The climbing members will have enough acclimatization by spending night at camp I and Camp II and enough rest at the base camp before heading for the summit.From Camp II we climb 45 degrees snow slopes past a subsidiary summit at 6745m. from where the route becomes more difficult. We climb through short, steep steps for snow and ice to gain the ridge at about 7000m. We further climb a marked cleft and ice cliff to get broader and easier slope above which leads to the summit at 7129m.

Day 28 :  Coming down to Pokhari Camp

We descend through Barun Glacier and passing small boulders to arrive at the camp site.

Day 29 - 35:  Return Back top Kathmandu

After successful ascending, we will head back foll wing the same route  before we used. We have have together our farewell dinner in Kathmandu. Also we will assist you for your last minute gift shopping.

Day 36 :  Departure to sweet home !

Majestic Himalaya representative will drop you off at the airport approximately 1 hour before your scheduled flight. We wish sweet journey  for your way back to home. Just sweet home!!

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OUR SERVICES INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING DURING THE TRIP:

  • Airport Arrival Departure transfer as per mentioned in Itinerary
  • 4 Nights stay in Kathmandu with BB Plan
  • All essential ground transportation by Private Vehicle – as mentioned in Itinerary
  • Climbing permit for mount Mt. Baruntse Expedition
  • Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu Flight
  • Camping accommodation during Trekking & Climbing period
  • All meals – Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner during trekking and climbing period
  • Trekking Guide and well experienced climbing guide
  • Required number of porters, and kitchen staff for camping
  • All essential camping equipments - Dining tent, toilet tent, store tent, table - chair for expedition
    Liaison officer
  • All staffs salary, foods, clothing and insurance
  • All essential climbing gears
  • Emergency oxygen-mask & regulator (need to pay as per usages)
  • Solar panel for batteries charging & lighting in base camp
  • Satellite Phone (Need to pay as per usages per minute)
  • Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • All applicable TAX, VAT and necessary paperwork

OUR SERVICES EXCLUDE THE FOLLOWING DURING THE TRIP:

  • Personal Climbing gear
  • Your climbing insurance
  • Bar and Beverage bills
  • All personal nature expanses
  • TIPS for staffs
  • Refundable garbage deposit

Best Season for the Mt. Baruntse Expedition

Meals on the Mt. Baruntse Expedition

Drinking Water on Mt. Baruntse Expedition

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