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Mt. Baruntse Expedition

  • Price
  • USD 9000
  • Trip Grade
  • Strenuous
  • Max Elevation
  • 7129m
  • Best Time
  • Spring & Autumn
  • Activities
  • Climbing/Trekking
  • Total Duration
  • 36 Days
  • Group Size
  • 2-15 people

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 Mt. Baruntse is located between Lhotse and Makalu at the epicenter of three glacier valleys including Barun, Imja and Hunku. The mountain was first ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow in 1954 by the South-East Ridge. However, the steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse a somewhat difficult climb. Therefore, we choose a more accessible and popular alternative via South Ridge. This route also gives us the opportunity to acclimatize and climb the Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft). We make two high camps above the Base Camp – Camp I just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and the Camp II on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. The Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing also includes a few days trek into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal
Day 02 : Sightseeing Tour and Trip Preparation.
Day 03: Kathmandu - Lukla - Chutanga (3050m. ): 4 - 5 hrs.
Day 04 : Chutanga – Thulikharka ( 4300m. ); 6 – 7 hrs.
Day 05: Thulikharka – Mousamkharka (3700m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
Day 06: Mausamkharka – Thagnak (4350m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
Day 07 : Rest day at Thagnak
Day 08 : Thagnak – Khare ( 5099m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
Day 09: Khare – Mera Base Camp (5300m.); 4 – 5 hrs.
Day 10: Base Camp – High camp ( 5700m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.
Day 11: Summit (6476m.)– Kongma Dimngma (4850m., 9 – 10 hrs.)
Day 12: Kongma Dingma –Pokhari camp (5035m., 6- 7 hrs)
Day 13: Pokhari Camp - Baruntse base camp (5300m., 6 hrs.)
Day 14-27: Climbing period
Day 28 : Come down to Pokhari Camp
Day 29 : okharai camp – Kongma Dingma ( 4850m., 6 – 7 hrs.)
Day 29-34: Coming back to Lukla using the same route we used before
Day 35 : Fly back to Lukla
Day 36 : Fly back to sweet home
Day 01:  Arrival in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal

Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will be warmly greeted by a staff / representative. You will be transferred to a hotel.

Day 02 :  Sightseeing Tour and Trip Preparation.

After breakfast we will take you for a guided cultural tour and visit some of the historical and cultural sites which most of them are illustrated on the world heritage sites. You will visit historic Kathmandu Durbar Square clustered with old royal palaces and distinctive pagoda roofed temples, stone sculpture and old monuments. Swaymabhunath, the Buddhist stupa believed to be 2500 years old towering on the top of a hill commanding sweeping view of Kathmandu valley, the most profound expression of Buddhist symbolism in Nepal and possibly in the world.  Afternoon will be used for orientation and the preparation for the trip.

Day 03:   Kathmandu - Lukla - Chutanga (3050m. ): 4 - 5 hrs.

After breakfast, you will be transferred to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport for an early morning flight to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), a gateway for Everest. After an adventurous 35 minute flight with spectacular views of breathtaking Himalalays, we land at Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. Upon arrival at Lukla, the trekking guide will arrange the loads for the porters to carry and commence the trek. We ascend slowly for 3 hours and steep up for one hour and arrive at Chutanga for the camping. The views of Numbur (6957m), Karyolung (6511m), Kwangde (6011m ) are magnificent from here.

Day 04 :  Chutanga – Thulikharka ( 4300m. ); 6 – 7 hrs.

We steeply climb up passing yak pasturelands and bushes. The trail crosses the Kalo Himal Ridge which marks the boundary of Khumbu and Hinku Valley. Once we arrived at the pass, the views of Karyolung and  Lumding Himal are magnificent. We further hike and descend to Thulikharka.

Day 05:   Thulikharka – Mousamkharka (3700m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

The trail descens the rock-strewn path passing through rhododendron and pine forest. We find virtually, no human settlement on the trail. Kusum Kangaru, Peak 43 and Hinku Valley appear impressive as we descend. We arrive at Mausamkharka for the camping.

Day 06:  Mausamkharka – Thagnak (4350m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

We walk all day through the side of the mountain and the trail is narrow. We pass through the pasture lands and the patches of the jungle on the trail become thinner as we ascend near the snow line. We arrive at Thagnak.

Day 07 :  Rest day at Thagnak

Rest day in Thagnak. It is worth spending an extra day at Thagnak, which is in a superb setting surrounded by stunning peaks including Peak 43 (6,769m). There is a huge moraine in the north of Thagnak where a beautiful glacial lake, Sabai Tsho is dammed. It is worth exploring around for acclimatization purpose. Thagnak is also a base for climbing east and north-east side of Kushum Kanguru.

Day 08 :  Thagnak – Khare ( 5099m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.

We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Khraka which offers the spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and  to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers  and then climbs more steeply to Khare (5,099m).

Day 09:  Khare – Mera Base Camp (5300m.); 4 – 5 hrs.

We ascend for three hours and arrive at Mera La (5,415m). Normally, the pass will be covered with snow from Nov.- April. Again the views from the pass are spectacular.  We descend about 100m towards the Hongu side and set up the base camp (5,300m) in the moraine below the ice. We embrace the spectacular scenery of snow-slope and the panorama of Himalayan peaks.

Day 10:  Base Camp – High camp ( 5700m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.

We walk up through rocky trail for about 4 hours to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. We set up a high camp and make preparation for the next day to get to the summit.

Day 11:  Summit (6476m.)– Kongma Dimngma (4850m., 9 – 10 hrs.)

We start early morning after breakfast around 3:00am. Initially, we hike on the flat land on snow and gradually ascend with the help of main rope. There will be steep climbing near the summit but it would be rather non technical. After we reach the summit we embrace the spectacular panorama of the Himalayas including the 8000m. giants; Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchanjunga. We descend to base camp and enjoy the hot meal. We return to high camp and then to Kongma Dimngma.

Day 12:  Kongma Dingma –Pokhari camp (5035m., 6- 7 hrs)

We gradually ascend through Hongu valley, the real mountain wilderness.  There are several lakes and Himalayan peaks loom over the valley. We camp near the lakes.

Day 13:  Pokhari Camp - Baruntse base camp (5300m., 6 hrs.)

We continue following Hongu Valley passing through small boulders. The valley appears more barren as we climb up. We follow the right bank of Barun Glacier and arrive at Baruntse base camp. The camp will be set up on a broad open valley at foot of  the East Col

Day 14-27:  Climbing period

We establish two high camps above Baruntse Base Camp.  After having rest at Baruntse base camp, we cross the East Col and set Camp I on the flat expanses of the glacier and at the foot of the South East Ridge, at an altitude of 6,000m. The climbing Sherpas will make the route and carry the loads to Camp I. The climbing from Camp I follows steepening slopes to a small col at the altitude of 6,450m where Camp II will be placed. The climbing members will have enough acclimatization by spending night at camp I and Camp II and enough rest at the base camp before heading for the summit.From Camp II we climb 45 degrees snow slopes past a subsidiary summit at 6745m. from where the route becomes more difficult. We climb through short, steep steps for snow and ice to gain the ridge at about 7000m. We further climb a marked cleft and ice cliff to get broader and easier slope above which leads to the summit at 7129m. We descend by the same route to the base camp,

Day 28 :  Come down to Pokhari Camp

We descend through Barun Glacier and passing small boulders to arrive at the camp site.

Day 29 :  okharai camp – Kongma Dingma ( 4850m., 6 – 7 hrs.)

We pass several small lakes following Hongu Valley gradually descending to Kongma Dingma.

Day 29-34:  Coming back to Lukla using the same route we used before
Day 35 :  Fly back to Lukla
Day 36 :  Fly back to sweet home


  • Airport Arrival Departure transfer as per mentioned in Itinerary
  • 4 Nights stay in Kathmandu with BB Plan
  • All essential ground transportation by Private Vehicle – as mentioned in Itinerary
  • Climbing permit for mount Mt. Baruntse Expedition
  • Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu Flight
  • Camping accommodation during Trekking & Climbing period
  • All meals – Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner during trekking and climbing period
  • Trekking Guide and well experienced climbing guide
  • Required number of porters, and kitchen staff for camping
  • All essential camping equipments - Dining tent, toilet tent, store tent, table - chair for expedition
    Liaison officer
  • All staffs salary, foods, clothing and insurance
  • All essential climbing gears
  • Emergency oxygen-mask & regulator (need to pay as per usages)
  • Solar panel for batteries charging & lighting in base camp
  • Satellite Phone (Need to pay as per usages per minute)
  • Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • All applicable TAX, VAT and necessary paperwork


  • Personal Climbing gear
  • Your climbing insurance
  • Bar and Beverage bills
  • All personal nature expanses
  • TIPS for staffs
  • Refundable garbage deposit

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Meals on the Mt. Baruntse Expedition

Drinking Water on Mt. Baruntse Expedition

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